Water Damage Remediation



LEAKS

We specialize in in water leak forensics. We correct the faulty Flashing and/or Moisture-Barrier and/or Glazing issues that allow most water leaks. And then if needed, we repair the consequences of the leaks. Mostly Rot.

  • Rotten Siding
  • Rotten Plywood Sheathing
  • Rotten Structural Wall Components
  • Rotten Window Sash, Jambs, Sills, Trim
  • Rotten Door Sash, Jambs, Sills, Exterior Moulding

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Remediation: n.

The act or process of correcting a fault or deficiency.                                        –www.thefreedictionary.com

We offer well over two decades of expertise in:

  • Water Leak Remediation
  • Rot Remediation
  • Mold Remediation

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In our experience, something like 98% of all Water Leaks are related to improperly applied Flashing, Moisture Barrier or Failed Glazing.

Actually, it’s very rarely related to a problem with the “quality” of a window or door assembly.

Although the “installation,” or more specifically…the “improper flashing” of the window while being installed is often proven to be one of the leading culprits.

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Proper Flashing Technique & Application is NOT Rocket Science. Indeed, it pertains to the simplest of principals.

“That which is above must sufficiently overlap that which is below to protect all exterior seams.”

Thus keeping all water to the exterior of the structural envelope.

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When structural or architectural designs limit or prevent overlap, then augmentational products such as metal flashing materials (Example; Z-Flashing) must be employed to create an adequate overlap to prevent water penetration.

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Flashing Mistake #1:
Thinking that “caulking” is a sufficient “last line of defense” against water intrusion into your walls.

Flashing Mistake #2:
Thinking that the gap between the top of your windows and the siding needs to be caulked and that the gap is probably the source of the leak that is showing up at the interior top of your window.

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Flashing Mistake #3:
Cutting off the nailing-fins when installing windows to save on labor (not having to cut back the siding) to win a larger percentage of the bids.

Flashing Mistake #4:
Using low-end moisture barrier materials.

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We are often asked why the wood windows of the past 30 years or so seem to rot so much easier than the much older wood windows.

We’ve identified three likely reasons:

  • The quality of the wood used. Old-growth tight-grain Vs. trees harvested much younger.
  • They used to coat wood windows with lead until 1978.
  • Some of the popular architectural designs of the day forgo the use of eaves and awnings that used to protect window & door openings.

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Maintenance Tip #1:
Wood Window/Door Components that get wet almost every time it rains must be protected!

If awnings or storm-doors/windows are not an option, then the seams of the intersecting wood-components should be checked, caulked if needed & the products painted on an annual or semiannual basis.

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Maintenance Tip #2:
Even “Aluminum-Clad” WOOD window & door components should be checked every year or two for glazing that has begun to fail & aluminum-miters that are opening up.

That is unless you don’t mind the cost and hassle of eventually repairing or replacing some of your windows & doors.

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Note:
Inspecting your windows and doors every year or two is among the many services we offer!

What a coincidence!

No, seriously…this is an important part of “protecting” what is arguably among the most important financial investments most folks will ever make in their lifetimes upon the earth.

Their house or commercial properties.

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If you knew how many thousands of dollars our company makes every year repairing rotten windows, doors & exterior walls, you might quickly agree that a $400.00 to $600.00 annual or semiannual inspection with a written report for your records when you go to sell your house was among the smartest “maintenance-money” you could spend on your property.

Because it’s preventative maintenance!

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There are sometimes conflicting opinions regarding the merits of repairing rotten windows and doors. In large part, we believe that this is because there are some companies who employ questionable repair practices, such as butt-jointing spliced components and leaving portions of the original wood components that have already been affected by the spread of the rot inducing fungus, thus translating into additional rot to the repaired door or window, a year or two down the road.

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We inspect rotting & previously repaired doors & windows almost every day, so we know that there are many “previously repaired wood doors & windows” with components that have continued to degrade.

And to be fair, discerning the extent to which fungus has already affected adjoining wood components is less than an exact science.

Nonetheless, there are certain common-sense practices that can minimize the potential for missing infected wood components.

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